Climbing

I was diagnosed with ataxia a couple of years back, since then i have been going to the climbing gym regularly.

I have just taken part in the british paraclimbing series where I got 2 nd place overall in 4 competitions. I struggle with walking but the rock face is different, although most of my weight has to be on my fingers and hands because the legs are failing me, climbing has to be one of the best exercise regiment for a body that's failing me in other sporting activities. It works over my body as well as my brain and i find i can think better as well as move better. Because my finger strength has improved so much it is a few months since i had a fall that ended up with me on the floor. (I have rails and grab handles all round my home)

I want to hold off the worst symptoms of ataxia until until im bed ridden and my body and mind both fail completely and think what im doing is the best way for me to accomplish that

I too have problems with my legs, I have found that it causes very rapid atrophy of upper leg muscles, so have set myself a tough regime where weight training is concerned, and, keeping to it, leg strength is not really a problem now, increasing lack of control is. Climbing would be ideal, but there is nowhere close to me that caters for it, squat thrusts are the next best thing, but unfortunately I can`t use the machine at the local gym as I have torn muscles in my shoulders, but I have managed to compromise. Keep fighting.



bloodaxe said:

I too have problems with my legs, I have found that it causes very rapid atrophy of upper leg muscles, so have set myself a tough regime where weight training is concerned, and, keeping to it, leg strength is not really a problem now, increasing lack of control is. Climbing would be ideal, but there is nowhere close to me that caters for it, squat thrusts are the next best thing, but unfortunately I can`t use the machine at the local gym as I have torn muscles in my shoulders, but I have managed to compromise. Keep fighting.



Alex Downes said:



bloodaxe said:

I too have problems with my legs, I have found that it causes very rapid atrophy of upper leg muscles, so have set myself a tough regime where weight training is concerned, and, keeping to it, leg strength is not really a problem now, increasing lack of control is. Climbing would be ideal, but there is nowhere close to me that caters for it, squat thrusts are the next best thing, but unfortunately I can`t use the machine at the local gym as I have torn muscles in my shoulders, but I have managed to compromise. Keep fighting.

there is a climbing wall close to most town s so ull not have more than 30 miles to get to one, u can probably check it out on the internet

FYI - Conditioning the legs is great but it is more of a benefit if you work on your core (neck to butt).

which climbing does,in gallons. I tried afew exersise techniques but have found none which have as well rounded positive result.

I too climb and find it a great exercise to help with my ataxia. I’ve made a lot of progress in the last few months by pushing myself more but still find it a struggle to go up a grade. It seems to be certain techniques I struggle with often rather than the overall difficulty. I did a 6a the other day but often get stuck on a 4!
What was it like competing? I’ve never seen anyone at the walls that doesn’t appear completely able bodied. What kind of grades do you climb and what we’re competition ones like? I saw a poster for it last year but would be worried I wouldn’t even get off the floor.

i can usually climb a 5 and the highest rated climb is a 6a. Climbing is great exercise for disabled people, it trains not only the body but also concentration, so I really don't understand why it is not a far more common thing for people with a huge range of mental and physical issues.

the competitions ive been in are a great reason for me to get out and do some exercise on a regular basis.

the level of competition is not really fair due to such a wide range of debilitating conditions, it would be asking to much for comp organisers to cater to all abilities.

The comps ive been in are at national level but there are so few paraclimbers around that even those have about 20-30 competitors involved. I'd love to see more get involved and hope you've been encouraged by this.

Ok if your highest is a 6a and you’ve entered competitions then I feel encouraged and don’t feels so far behind! When I compare myself to the guys I climb with I always feel like my progression is so much slower. But I guess it always will be. Although the grading seems much harsher where I climb now compared to when i started at the Quay, which is where I guess you go being in Exeter?

I think a lot of people see climbing as quite hard anyway so the idea of doing it with a disability seem crazy. Once you’ve seen someone climb with missing limbs though you realise anyone can do it!

Did you find the competitions relatively easy then? Are there many of them?

I had to train hard for afew months for the comps as the competition level is quite hard. there are 4 comps in the national paraclimbing series, there's afew others round the country but i havnt been to any of them.

Its hard for someone with ataxia because even though it seems a leg amputee has a disadvantage, my 2 legs dont even equal 1 good leg.

Is the quay climbing center your local wall? if so it would be great to meet up for s session there.

check out a climber called dave 'flash' bowes to see the level of competition, hes a climber with a neuro-physical condition that affects him in a very different way compared to ataxia.

If there was one close to me I might give it a go but I don’t think I’d be brave enough to go to anything national. Not quite there!

I’m not too bad at the moment with walking but sometimes on the wall there are things that should be simple that I just can figure out how to make my body do it. I think it’s the weight distribution and balance. And I can’t boulder due to lack of confidence in my ability to land.

Sadly not anymore. I still go down occasionally as family are there and going to the conference in Exeter in June.

I just watched a video of him bouldering, he’s amazing. Yeah affects him differently to how ataxia does.

The landing from a boulder problem is a problem for alot of disabled climbers, all the boulder problems at the comps ive been to have had a top rope fixed to them so there wont be any issues.

Im going to the conference too, for the sunday only so i might meet you there!

I tried to get my bf to spot me so I could have a go…we won’t be trying that again! How do people practice as normal walls don’t have them? Just risk it?

Awesome you cold give me some tips! I’ll be the talk girl looking remarkably stable for such an event I think!